There are several abiotic disorders that can create symptoms on camellias, azaleas, and rhododendrons. Iron Chlorosis Analysis- Iron chlorosis is a problem because these three plants are acid-loving plants. This is caused by a deficiency of iron in plant tissue. Even if your soil has iron in it the iron is not available to the plant because it is in an insoluble form. If your plant is close to concrete paths or walls and it is in a naturally alkaline areas, you will likely to have iron chlorosis.
Symptoms- The leaves are sometimes pale green to yellow. The new leaves can be completely yellow, with the tissue and veins remaining green. Treatment- To treat your plants you will need to increase soil acidity by adding iron sulfate, sulfur, or ammonium sulfate. After you do this check the soil pH and if you need to add more chemicals, do it now. Another way to do this is by mulching soil with leaf mold or pine needles and them use a fertilizer that is formulated for acid-loving plants. If this does not help then you will need to spray the foliage with cheated iron. Salt Burn Symptoms- The leaf edges of these plants will turn brown and brittle. The lowest leaves on a plant which is the older leaves, the browning will occur.
Analysis- This happens when excess salts which are in the soil that are taken up by the plant and it all goes to the leaves. Salt burn is usually found in areas that are long-term or short-term low rainfall and when to much fertilizer has been used. This problem can just in acid or alkaline soil. If you have these plants planted in containers or in poorly drained soil, there is a chance that you will have this problem with your plants. Windburn, Sunburn, And Winter Injury Symptoms- The symptoms are that the young, exposed leaves will turn dry and brown, particularly around their leaf edges, and near tips. One part of your plant may look healthy, while the other part of the plant looks real sick.
Analysis- If you plant your plant in a cold climate, or in a windy or sunny location you will have this problem. Excess heat and sun can also cause this problem. Plants that are growing in windswept locations., will get windburn and winter injury. When the winter temperatures goes below 32 degree F and if you have strong winds this will cause the leaves to lose moisture a whole lot faster than the roots can replace and they causes these problems. Leaf burn will occurs on very windy, dry, summer days or excessive sun in hot temperatures. Treatment- Plant shrubs in locations protected from sun or wind will help this situation. Shrubs need to be well-watered during the hot, windy, time. Always water in late fall and winter time to make sure that they are having enough water. Summary Camellias, rhododendrons, and azaleas have several physiological or abotic disorders. Probably if you go by all of these treatments, this should help all of your problems.
These two ornamental shrubs you can find in yards all over the world. Azaleas has a signature characteristic and it is the vibrant displays of color. The signature characteristic of the rhododendrons is their spectacular and dramatic flower clusters.
These two plants grow in a variety of shapes and sizes. They also have handsome foliage with diverse, texture, and they have good versatility in landscapes, does not matter whether they are in beds, borders, and containers. Rhododendrons and azaleas are similar in many ways. The two have similar cultural requirements and their landscapes uses are the same. The two plants have differences in their adaptability, history, and physical characteristics of development, size, leaf texture, and flower type. The similarities which includes that they all like humus-rich moist, slightly acid, well-drained soil, and they require some shade for best performance. If you want your plants to performed good, plant them by established trees that provide afternoon shade. They also look alike from afar with their glossy, dark green leaves and shrubby habit. They look very good together. Native species of azaleas, and rhododendrons are found in a triangle of Asia, including Nepal, parts of southwestern China, and northern Burma. There are differences between rhododendrons and azaleas. The leaves of the rhododendrons are leathery, and the flowers are in large clusters at the ends of the stems. Azaleas have small leaves and profuse flowers scattered over the entire shrub. Both of the plants have small leaves. The difference between the two plants are the undersides of their leaves. Lepidote rhododendrons are covered in tiny scales, whereas, the azaleas have no scales.
The leaves of rhododendrons are thicker, darker green and more robust appearing. The flowers of azaleas are smaller than the rhododendron's. They both have very pretty flowers. Differences between rhododendrons from azaleas.
AZALEAS Azalea s leaves are small,, narrow, and painted. The undersides of leaves have small hairs and the leaves are easier, thinner, and softer than those of rhododendrons. Flowers are flatter than rhododendrons. Flowers are on the sides and on the sides and on the tips of the stems. Flowers has five lobes and five stamens.
RHODODENDRONS The leaves are broad, long, large, and leathery leaves. They have smaller leaves than azalea leaves. The leaves are heavier in texture, and usually hairless. Flowers are more bell-shaped and they are larger than azalea flowers. Flowers have large clusters of each blossoms at the ends of the branches. Flowers have five to seven lobes and ten or more stamens.
I think that any vegetables or fruits that you grow your own self, they always tastes better than any that is store-bought. They are also more tender than store-bought. This plant produce one main central head and it also has many smaller side shoots and this means that the harvest will be prolong. The florets freezes real well, so if their is any surplus they can be preserved for later use. If their is any surplus they can be preserved for later use. If there is not any space to start the plants off in doors, direct so wings outdoors in the summer perform extremely well. Broccoli is a vegetable that prefers a rich, well-drained soil, so I will add a big amount of organic matter which will be well-rotted manure or compost and I will do this the season before I will be planting in that area. I always make sure that no other members of the brassica family have been planted in this same location in the past three years and this helps to prevent the build-up of soil diseases. Calabrese broccoli can be sown under cover either in pots or large trays, that can be transplanted later on. I will put seed compost in the containers, then I will firm the compost, and I will water well, and make two holes each pot or module, that are 1/2 inch deep. I will drop a seed into each hole that I have made then I will cover with compost, and then I will water them lightly. After they emerged, I will thin the seedlings to keep the strongest ones. Sometimes I will plant the seeds outside. I will plant the seeds outside. I will need to create a seedbed and make my rows twelve inches apart, and I will sow three seeds every eight inches into holes that are 3/4 inch deep. I will thin out the seedlings, so I will have the strongest seedlings, and I will put pellets down to protect my seedlings from slugs. When my indoor-sown plants are six inches tall, I will harden them off and then I will plant them out in my garden, at eight inches apart. I keep an eye on my plants so they do not get root-bound because that can cause the premature formation of small heads. Keep the plants well watered and keep the plants well weeded. I put aluminium foil around each plant to deter cabbage root fly. I divide up my plot by using bamboo poles and string, because this helps with my plant spacings land it also acts as a support for netting. Sometimes I will need to tied my tall plants to bamboo poles to give them sufficient support. The routine care of the plants, as the heads of the plants begin to develop, I will put soil around the base of the stems to stabilize them and this is called earthing up. Now is the time to add a granular high-nitrogen fertilizer and I do this because this boost the main head size, and it encourages of the production of side shoots so I can have several different ones. I will put a frame of the netting over my plants to keep the birds out especially the pigeons. I do this to keep the cabbage white butterflies and the mealy cabbage aphids. The net has to be fine, with a maximum mesh diameter of 1/2 inch to stop the adult butterflies from reaching my plants. I can start harvesting my crop in approximately three to four months after I sow them, which depends on the variety and the time of the year. I will cut the main head off first, and then, when the smaller side shoots appears, I will harvest them. The younger leaves of broccoli can be eaten as well.
The modern Mexican cooking depends upon beans and corn as their basic staples, along with both the old and new world cuisines. Home gardeners grow corn, beans, tomatoes, onions, sweet peppers, and squash. The Big Three crops are tomatillos, chili peppers, and cilantro, so if you are a gardener and want to capture the authentic 'South of the Border' taste, these three crops you should grow. Tomatillos are easy to grow. These plants do not mind the heat and humidity, so you need to wait until the weather is warm and stable. The soil where you are going to plant tomatillos needs to be especially fertile, but heavy, poorly drained soils has to have sand and a bit of organic matter added to it. The seeds need to be planted several seeds in hills that are planted about 16 inches apart. Now, when the seedlings have two pairs of true leaves, you need to thin them to one per hill. If you are watering your chile peppers, then you need to water your tomatillos. It is according to how your weather is, they should begin to bear in a couple of months, and they will keep producing until frost. The fruits may drop off of the plant by themselves, and they can be left to partially-ripen. Tomatillos can be used from the time the husk open, until they have a pale golden tinge. Under ripe tomatillos is better than the overripe ones for most purposes. The best way to keep the tomatillos is by removing the husk, along with the sticky sap that coats the surface of the fruit. You need to wash off all of the sap and then dry the fruit with a kitchen towel. You need to placed them in a plastic bag and put them in the refrigerator and they will stay good for more than a week in a refrigerator. They also can be canned like tomatoes and you do not need to peel the tomatillos. Chile peppers comes in many different sizes and shades, but they are classified into just a few v groups. Poblano peppers are conical in shape and they grow big like a bell pepper. They have a dark, green, glossy, skins that sometimes turn red if you have a long and warm season. Harvested when ripe and dried until leathery, the poblano becomes an ancho, the chocolate brown chile which is used for most of the commercial, 'chile powder'. Pasilla is the dried, red-ripe form of an elongate, and yellow-green chile is chilaca. They are sold canned, labeled as 'green chiles'. They are long and pointed that looks like a sweet banana pepper, but bigger when mature. Both poblano and Anaheim chiles are mildly hot. Smaller chile varieties are much hotter, and the heat increasing as the size decreases. The largest and the mildest of these is, jalapeno which is an elongate, blunt tipped shiny green pepper which grows up to 4 inches long. Jalapeno turns cherry red when it gets ripe, and they are hot at any time of development. Jalapinos are sometimes stuffed with chesse, breaded and deep-fried. They are done in a pickled form which are both whole and sliced. Serrano is a fiendishly hot little pepper which grows to the length of 2 inches. Serrano grows to tapers at both ends with a fatter middle.. The ones that grows to a length of one inch which is called 'bird peppers', and they are eye-watering hot and they are dried and used either in whole or powered form. All types of chile peppers are grown in the same way. The soil needs to be organically rich, but not too fertile. If you over fertilize you will have less fruits. They need a long, warm, dry growing season to mature properly. You will have to start early, if you are not going to use plants, because some of these varieties can take a month just to germinate. Start your peppers in a 36 cell trays and the soil temperature has to be above 75 degree F. Put one seed in each cell, covering with about a quarter inch of growing mix. You need to keep it barely moist until the seedlings emerge. If the temperature as cool and the soil has excess moisture, it will lead to poor germination or death of young seedlings. When you get two pairs of true leaves have formed, transplant the seedlings to small pots. Keep them warm, because the nighttime temperature should not be below 65 degrees F, and plants should be wintered with warm water. Put them in large container if you can not get them in a garden. If you have setbacks during the early growth stages this will hinder the harvest. Never allow plants to wilt. Chile peppers planting area needs to be fertilized with cottonseed and bone meal at transplant time. Sprinkle a tablespoon of each into the bottom of the planting hole, cover with a little soil and then put the plants in place. The holes needs to be space eighteen inches apart. You will need to stake them for later when the fruit set. Peppers bears so much fruit that they can break due to the weight of the peppers. Always feed your peppers with a liquid fertilizer, such as compost tea, every two weeks until flower buds appear. These peppers are not warm weather plants and if the night temperatures exceeds eighty degrees F then the blossoms will drop off. So the plantings will do real good if the night temperatures do not drop below 65 degrees F.
Using pots is a real good way to be able to raise different vegetables and herbs in them, in case, you do not have a big space for your garden. Some more benefits of using containers is it makes it easier to weed and having them where I can move them under cover when this is necessary. I can also grow a wider choice of crops, because I can choose the soil type, which means I am not limited to crops that I can grow in your garden soil. I must water and feed allot, so I need to invest in an automatic irrigation system. To be able to conserve moisture, I can add water-retaining gel to my compost and mulch the surface to keep the water from evaporation. Choosing the right container. Containers needs to have drainage holes in the bottom to allow excess water to drain away, and it is according to what material my container is made of, as it will determine how quickly they will dry out. Unglazed terra-cotta pots will lose water through their sides, especially if I have them sitting in the sun. Thick-walled concrete tubs are very good about keeping water in. Wooden barrels that has plastic lining in the bottom will reduce water loss. I will need to match my container to the crop that I am going to grow in the containers. To grow roots of radishes and salad leaves, my container choice will be limitless, such as window boxes, tea pots, and old boots, so I can have allot of fun with the way I grow them. Always remember, the smaller the pot is, I will need to water the crops more frequently. If I am growing large crops like cabbage and potatoes, my container needs to have a minimum depth and diameter of twelve inches.
Fruit in Containers I will need to pick a container that is deep and wide enough for long-term fruit crops, which it needs to have a minimum depth of twelve inches and a width of at least four inch larger than the existing pot. I will need to re pot annually in the early to mid spring time and this is when my tree or bush is still young and the growth rate is rapid. As the plant matures, the growth rate will slow down, so I will need to check the roots and if they are not yet filling the compost, so do not re pot until the next year. When the container is bigger enough to make re potting unnecessary, just 'top-dress' each spring and I can replacing the four inch of compost. Put my pot on 'feet' in the winter to drain. Some people will use different containers for different crops of different sizes and colors. I can put pots with ornamental plants and this will add color and interest to the pots or containers that has edible plants in them that are developing. Different Kinds Of Containers There are so many different kinds of containers that I can used for my garden needs or design. If I have a small space for my garden using containers will be good to use, because some pots can be fastened onto walls and fences which will take up less space. 1. Hanging baskets- Planting strawberries and tomato in hanging baskets would be ideal and planting a mix of colorful and ornamental plants would make a striking appearance. 2. Wall planters- This particular type of a container has to be securely fastened because they will need to support the large plants. The plants has to be kept well watered and the fruits will need to be supported. 3. Terra-cotta pots- These pots come in a variety of different sizes and shapes. They have a rustic-looking to them and this would make a lovely addition to the porch or deck and I will be able to support a variety of crops. 4. Wall-pouches- These containers are great for herbs or salad leaves, but they will need to be watered frequent. These are a space-saving device that allows me to make the most of an unused surface. 5. Window boxes- they are used for crops like salad greens and it would be a great idea to have it would be a great idea to have it easy access to the kitchens for cooking. 6. Fabric bags- One of the crops that I can grow in these bags, will be potatoes because of the depth of the fabric bags. After I am through using these fabric bags, I will need to just fold them up until I will need to grow in them again.
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